Why Winter is the Woodlander's Busy Season

Once the leaves have fallen and the sap has withdrawn to the roots, the woodland enters its dormant season. For anyone who manages British woodland, this is the golden window for cutting, laying and shaping. Trees and shrubs are not actively growing, so they respond well to being cut back. The lack of foliage makes it far easier to see the structure of a hedge or the stems of a coppice stool. Wildlife is less likely to be disturbed – though you must still tread carefully – and the ground is often firm enough to work on without churning it into mud. From November through to late February, the traditional tasks of coppicing, hedge laying and tool maintenance come to the fore.

Coppicing Hazel and Willow

Coppicing is the ancient practice of cutting a tree or shrub down to near ground level to stimulate new growth. Hazel and willow are the classic species for this in Britain. Cut them whilst the sap is down, typically between November and early March, to avoid bleeding sap and to give the stool the best chance of vigorous regrowth in spring.

For hazel, use a sharp billhook or bow saw. Cut each stem as close to the ground as you can, leaving a clean, sloping cut that sheds water away from the stool. Aim for a stool of 10–15 cm across, with stems cut at 5–10 cm above soil level. Do not cut into the stool itself. A mature hazel stool can be cut on a rotation of seven to fifteen years, depending on the size of rods you need. Willow coppice – often grown as a short rotation crop – can be cut every one to three years for weaving rods.

• Hazel rods: use for hurdle making, thatching spars, bean poles and tool handles.
• Willow rods: ideal for basket weaving, living willow structures and binders for hedge laying.
• Leave some stems on a few stools for wildlife – deadwood and standing stems support insects and birds.

Always cut with the weather in mind. Avoid working on frosty mornings when stems are brittle, and never cut when the sap is rising in spring.

Laying a Hedge for Stockproof Boundaries

Hedge laying is the craft of partially cutting through the stems of a hedge and bending them over at an angle to create a dense, stockproof barrier. It is traditionally done in winter, when the sap is down and the hedge is dormant. A well-laid hedge will thicken from the base, providing shelter for livestock and a haven for wildlife.

The basic technique is to select a stem – the pleacher – and cut a sloping notch about two-thirds of the way through, just above ground level. Bend the stem over towards the direction of the hedge line, keeping the cambium layer intact so the stem continues to grow. Repeat along the length of the hedge, securing the pleachers with stakes driven into the ground and binders woven along the top. Different regions have their own styles – Midland, Devon, Dorset, Yorkshire – each suited to local climate, soil and livestock.

Timing is crucial. Work from late October to early March, but avoid hard frosts when stems can snap. Check for nesting birds – some early nesters like mistle thrush may start in February. If you find an active nest, leave that section until later. A properly laid hedge should last fifteen to fifty years before it needs relaying.

Wildlife in the Winter Wood

Winter woodland work must always be done with wildlife in mind. Hibernating dormice may be curled up in the base of a hedge or in coppice stools. Bats might be roosting in hollow trees. Leave brash piles and deadwood in place – they provide shelter for insects, amphibians and small mammals. If you are coppicing, do it in sections rather than clearing a whole wood at once, so wildlife can move to adjacent areas.

Watch for tracks in the mud or snow: deer, foxes, badgers and otters are more visible in winter. Birds such as woodcock, redwing and fieldfare visit from colder climes. Leave some seed-bearing plants and berry-laden shrubs untouched. A wildlife-friendly wood is a diverse one, with a mix of open glades, dense coppice and mature trees.

Sharpening and Caring for Tools

Winter is the best time to give your tools some attention. A sharp billhook, axe or pruning saw makes the work safer and easier, and reduces damage to the wood you are cutting. After each session, wipe metal blades with an oily rag to prevent rust. Use a fine file or whetstone to maintain a consistent bevel – a billhook usually has a single bevel on one side, whilst an axe has a symmetrical edge. Never sharpen a bow saw blade; replace it when it dulls.

• Billhook: file the bevel at the original angle, then remove the burr with a fine stone.
• Axe: use a puck or file, working from the edge towards the poll.
• Loppers and secateurs: clean sap off blades, oil the pivot, and sharpen with a diamond file.
• Handles: sand lightly and treat with linseed oil to prevent splitting.

Store tools in a dry place, ideally hanging up rather than on a damp floor. A winter spent caring for your tools pays dividends when the busy season arrives. And when you are out in the wood, take a moment to enjoy the quiet – the frost on the hazel, the call of a buzzard, the satisfaction of a hedge laid straight and true.